“He stood straight then, moving to stand directly in front of me as he dropped low and bowed dramatically. “Your Majesty.”
― Kimberly Derting, The Pledge

During my Okinawan trip, I was introduced to the rich history of these Japanese islands. They are located far from mainland Japan. It was the first time I heard of another kingdom that existed in Japan known as the Ryukyu Kingdom. It was an independent kingdom that ruled the Ryukyu Islands from the 15th to 19th century. The Ryukyu islands include the Okinawan islands and the Amami islands in Kagoshima prefecture. During that period, the kingdom played an important role in the maritime trade networks. It connected the East and Southeast Asia. The kingdom had a tributary relationship with China during the Ming dynasty. It also had a relationship with Japan under the Tokugawa shogunate. This continued until Japan unilaterally abolished the Ryukyu Kingdom in 1872. The last king of the ruling Shō dynasty of the Ryukyu kingdom was forced to be relocated to Tokyo.

The castles and monuments in Okinawa represent 500 years of Ryukuan history. As a result, they received the World Heritage Site designation in 2000. They are titled “Gusuku sites and related properties of the Ryukyu Kingdom.” “Gusuku” is the Okinawan word for the Ryukuan castles. These nine historically significant sites include the ruins of two stone monuments, five castles, and two cultural landscapes. Fortunately, I have visited five of them, including the four castles.

On the second day of my Okinawan trip, I went to the nearest castle to my hotel, the Shuri-jo castle. It is just inside Naha city and can be reached by monorail until the Shuri station. It was a rainy day, and I was just using Google Maps for directions (as I always do). The Shuri-jo castle park has an entrance fee of 820 yen.

Shuri-jo castle has served as the administrative center and residence of the Ryukyu kings. It was built in the late 1300s and destroyed during the 1945 war. The buildings were reconstructed in 1992. The main hall was restored based on surveyed plans and pre-war photographs. This was done in strict accordance with the findings of the excavation covering a wide area.

I arrived at the halls of the main gate. I found a stamp rally for the entire Shuri-jo castle park. I thought it would be a good thing to do the stamp rally (not only because I am a fan of doing it, lol!) so that I would not miss going to any part of the park. I did the stamp rally, even if it was raining.

 

Another part of this World Heritage Site is the Sonohyan Utaki Stone Gate. This gate is located along the road going to the main hall of the Shuri-jo castle. It served as the entrance to a small sacred forest known as the guardian shrine of the Ryukyu Kingdom.

After returning from my short visit to Ishigaki Island, I decided to visit the Nakagusuku and Katsuren Castles. I checked the map, and it seems that the two castles are somehow on the same route. Both are located in central Okinawa Honto.

After riding the bus number 30 for an hour, I reached the Nakagusuku Shogakko-mae. The Nakagusuku castle is located uphill and can be reached by walking for more than 30 minutes. The ruins of the castle are the best preserved among all the Ryukyu castles. The three divisions of the castle can be clearly recognized by the enclosure walls. These enclosures reminded me of the anime “Shingeki No Kyojin”. The castle is located atop a high hill. It offers a nice view of the Nakagusuku Bay and the surrounding areas.

Afterward, I walked back to the bus stop to catch bus number 30 again. After seven stops, I transferred to bus number 52, which was going to the Katsuren Danchi-mae.

The Katsuren Castle Ruins are located on the Yokatsu Peninsula. The Pacific Ocean surrounds it on two sides. Thus, it is also called the “Ocean Gusuku”. The castle is the former seat of Lord Amawari. He was popular for his ambitions for the throne of the Ryukyu Kingdom. He also launched attacks against Lord Gosamaru of the Nakagusuku Castle.

I visited the Nakijin castle. It is the fourth Ryukyu castle on my list. I went as part of the Okinawan bus tour I took the next day. It is the northernmost castle of the Ryukyu Kingdom.

The Nakijin Castle Ruins are located on the Motobu Peninsula. They served as the seat of the northern kings and the Ryukyu Kingdom governor. Like the other castle ruins, the fortress’s main characteristics are its strong walls. Castles were built with architecture that could defend the kingdom from enemies’ attacks.

I was one castle short for my Okinawan castle ruins tour. I haven’t visited the Zakimi castle ruins, and I am reserving it for my next Okinawan visit.